Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route

Victorian British mountaineers in the Alpine Club first pioneered the "High Level Route" between the two centres of Alpinism - Chamonix and Zermatt as a summer mountaineering challenge. The first ski traverse of the Classic Haute Route was in 1911 and since then it has become the most famous ski tour in the Alps and the big tick for many ski mountaineers.

The most popular route these days goes through the Swiss ski resort of Verbier. This route can be completed in seven days of skiing by reasonably fit intermediate skiers. Some ski touring/backcountry experience is also required but an ability to cope with all off-piste snow conditions is more important than mountaineering skills. It is possible to do this route in a week from Sunday to Saturday but a start during the week will find fewer people on the route.

Verbier Haute Route

• Day 1 - After a kit check and issue of safety equipment we spend the morning warming up at Les Grandes Montets before heading 600m down and across to the Argentierre Hut (2771m). Here we can do some coaching in basic touring and avalanche transceiver skills.
• Day 2 - A two hour skin up to the Col du Chardonnet which requires a roped descent. After crossing the Glacier de Saleina a steep slope leads to the Fenetre de Saleina giving access to the Trient Glacier and the Trient Hut (3170m).
• Day 3 - A long descent (1670m), steep at first, takes us down the Val d'Arpette to the small Swiss village of Champex from where we take a taxi to Verbier. The lift system allows easy access to the Mont Fort Hut from where we can enjoy an afternoon of piste skiing.
• Day 4 - We traverse two cols before making an ascent of Rosablanche (3336m), a peak with fantastic views of the Pigne d'Arolla. A brilliant descent (700m) takes us down to the superb Prafleuri Hut.
• Day 5 - An early start is required to make the long traverse along the Lac des Dix before the snow softens too much. A gentle climb then takes us to the Dix Hut, dominated by Mont Blanc de Cheilon.
• Day 6 - Traversing the Pigne d'Arolla (3790m) makes for a wonderful climb followed by a great ski down (630m) to the Vignettes Hut.
• Day 7 - The last day is an unforgettable ski. We traverse three cols with the many 4000m peaks surounding Zermatt coming in to view before the long final descent under the Matterhorn to Zermatt. This day involves 2600m of descent in the best mountain scenery in the Alps!

Seven days allows some flexibilty for bad weather. If we get stuck in a hut for a day we can make it up by joining two days by going on a more direct route. However, a complete traverse is dependent on fairly good weather.

For stronger skiers with a higher level of fitness and mountaineering skills the Classic Haute Route gives longer days, more ascent and therefore more descent. Instead of taking a taxi from Champex to Verbier we go to Bourg St. Pierre and climb up to the Valsorey Hut. From here we traverse the Plateau du Couloir to go around the Grand Combin, a key section on serious ground that is always memorable. After a night at the Chanrion Hut the route goes over the Pigne d'Arolla and joins the Verbier Route for the last day. The Classic Haute Route can also be completed in seven days.

The prices below cover the guiding fees and eight nights half board accommodation. Cable cars, lunches and valley transfers are not included. The table gives prices for 7 days of skiing but there is no restriction on the length of a course. The prices are per person.

Yet more adventurous is the Grande Lui Variation. This is the most aesthetic route to follow as it is possible to complete it entirely on skis with no need for road transport of any sort. Also we stay a night at the Grand St. Bernard Hospice, a magical place to stay. This route takes eight days to complete and is not as crouded as the other routes. The skiing is more difficult and the ability to make controlled turns on 35degree slopes is necessary.

The Grande Lui Variation

• Day 3 - From the Trient Hut we return through the Fenetre de Saleina and cross the glacier to climb steep slopes to the Col de la Grande Lui or Col de Saleina. It is possible to climb the Grande Lui itself (3509m) before skiing the 2000m descent to La Fouly where we stay in a hotel.
• Day 4 - Following the road to Ferret we continue up the valley to the Fenetre de Ferret and a short descent to the Grand St. Bernard Hospice.
• Day 5 - An early start is needed for this long day. We descend to Bourg St. Bernard and take the small lift there. A steep 900m climb, a traverse of two cols, a great 600m descent and another 700m climb get us to the Valsorey hut where the Classic Route is joined.

The prices below cover the guiding fees and nine nights half board accommodation. Cable cars, lunches and valley transfers are not included. The table gives prices for 8 days of skiing but there is no restriction on the length of a course. The prices are per person.

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