Matterhorn

The most recognisable and famous mountain in the world, The Matterhorn is what you come up with when asked to draw "a mountain". It is almost the definition of alpinism, every ascent being long and committing with continuously technical ground on both ascent and descent. All of its routes require perfect conditions and excellent technique. Reaching the summit requires many things to come together but when they do it will be an experience to remember for ever.

There are two main routes to the summit, both of which require excellent confidence and fluidity over easy rock climbing going up and going down. There are fixed ropes over the hardest sections that require to be abseiled on descent and there is always a large number of people on the route which adds to the difficulty and time pressure.

The Hornli Ridge above Zermatt takes about five or six hours to climb and six or seven hours to descend. It is the most often climbed route (so it can be extremely busy) and the easiest with the hardest section being UIAA grade III on rock and over fixed ropes 100m below the summit. It is not usually possible with fresh snow on and it takes three or four days of dry weather to clear after snow.

The Italian Ridge above Cervinia takes a day to get to the Carrel Hut involving climbing and fixed ropes. The summit is quicker to reach than from the Hornli Hut and it is common to descend the Hornli Ridge to complete a traverse of the mountain.

Due to the altitude and committing nature of the climbing previous alpine and rock climbing experience is essential followed by some training and aclimatisation climbs before taking on The Matterhorn. The maximum guiding ratio is 1:1 but training climbs can be done at 1:2.

An itinerary for a six day Matterhorn trip could run like this -

• Day 1 - Walk up to the Almageller Hut above Saas Almagel and traverse the Dri Hornli (3200m, 3 to 4 hours) next to the hut.
• Day 2 - Traverse the Portjengrat (12 hours described as the best climb of its type in the Saas valley) or climb the E Ridge of Mittelruck (grade IV+ and a 12 hour round trip).
• Day 3 - An early start to traverse Weissmies (4023m) by its S Ridge and descent to Saas Grund.
• Day 4 - An easy day of 2 hours walking up to the Hornli Hut for lunch followed by 2 hours spent on the first section of the Hornli Ridge to check out the route.
• Day 5 - Climb the Hornli Ridge to The Matterhorn and descend back to the Hornli Hut.
• Day 6 - A leisurely walk down to Zermatt is usually all that can be managed however if we make it down to Zermatt after the summit climb the last day can be spent on the Breithorn standard route or half-traverse to get the best views of the Matterhorn.

Up to 2 people can climb with one guide for the first three days, but one guide can only take one client for the last three days on The Matterhorn. The prices for this programme are below and include seven nights accommodation in the valley or in the huts. Transport is also provided but cable car expenses are extra. Prices are per person.

Adding another two days to the training course will undoubtedly give us more chance of success on The Matterhorn by giving us the chance to climb another 4000m peak. This could be the Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) or Zinal Rothorn (4221m) above Zermatt.

The prices for an extra two days are below. Prices are per person and include half board accommodation.

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