Mont Blanc

At 4810m, Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the western Alps. Apart from having a magnetic attraction to all mountaineers this also means a successful attempt will always be preceded by a good programme of acclimatisation and training peaks. Fitness, efficient crampon technique, sufficient acclimatisation and of course good weather are all essential to reach the summit. When you do reach the summit the views to the Matterhhorn, Eiger and Gran Paradiso are magnificent, matched only by your sense of achievement.

There are two main routes to the summit, both of which (in usual conditions) can be climbed by experienced hill walkers with a bit of coaching beforehand. The Bossons Ridge from the Gouter Hut is the easiest and shortest (1000m ascent in 4 hours), and it takes one long day or two shorter days to get to the Gouter Hut with some moderate rock scrambling on the way.

Traversing Mont Blanc from the Cosmiques Hut is possibly the nicer way of achieving the summit. The hut is easily reached from the Aiguille du Midi telepherique in 45 minutes but the route to the summit is longer and steeper than the Bossons Ridge as it traverses Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit before climbing up to Mont Blanc itself (1450 metres ascent in 6 hours).

An itinerary for a six day Mont Blanc trip could run like this -

• Day 1 - A glacier day at Grands Montets looking at crampon technique, walking roped up and crevasse rescue with a short scramble to finish.
• Day 2 - Walk up to Vittorio Emmanuel Hut and do some rock climbing at the hut.
• Day 3 - An early start and an ascent of a peak (La Trezenta or Ciarforon, both around 3600m) before returning back down to the hut.
• Day 4 - Another early start to climb Gran Paradiso, a 4000m peak, before returning to Chamonix.
• Day 5 - Take the Midi Telepherique and descend to the Cosmiques Hut or climb up to the Gouter Hut. If the weather is good we can continue to the summit of Mont Blanc in the afternoon, returning to the Gouter Hut for dinner.
• Day 6 - Early start to climb Mont Blanc and descend back to Chamonix.

Up to four people can climb with one guide for the first four days, but one guide can only take two clients for the last two days on Mont Blanc. The prices for this programme are below and include seven nights accommodation in the valley or in the huts. Transport is also provided but cable car expenses are extra. Prices are per person.

There are many more adventurous training climbs that are possible. These include the Tour Ronde, Aiguille d'Argentierre, Aiguille de Triolet, Aiguille du Moine, Mont Blanc du Tacul ...

Adding another two days to the training course will undoubtedly give us more chance of success on Mont Blanc by giving us the chance to climb another 4000m peak. This could be Weissmies (4023m) or Laginhorn (4010m) above Saas Grund in Switzerland, the Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) above Zermatt in Switzerland or Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) above Chamonix.

The prices for an extra two days are below. Prices are per person and include half board accommodation.

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