Alpine North Faces

For experienced ice climbers and mountaineers Alpine north faces have provided the climbs to put their skills to the test. North faces are the longest, steepest and iciest. Big ice faces, gullies and mixed ridges are all found on north faces demanding the highest skills from those wishing to climb them. Because of this they have always required respect, along with those who climb them.

Perfect conditions can be hard to find. In recent dry years many ice faces have turned to black, hard ice. A covering of neve on the ice is best for good climbing. This happens most often in late spring and early summer. June and July are good months to be trying these climbs. However there is enough variety of climbs that there will always be something to climb.

Among the many possible objectives are Gran Paradiso NW Face (600m TD-), Tour Ronde N Face (350m D-), Aiguille Du Chardonnet N Spur (450m D-), Mont Blanc Du Tacul N Face (350m AD), Allalinhorn NE Ridge (D- 430m).

An itinerary for a six day North Faces trip looks like this -

• Day 1 - A revision day looking at crampon technique and walking roped up finishing with a short ice climb, the Petite Aiguille Verte North Face for example.
• Day 2 - Walk up to the Albert Premier Hut and practice crevasse rescue techniques at the hut.
• Day 3 - An early start and an ascent of the North Spur of the Aiguille du Chardonnet (Eperon Migot) before returning back down to the valley.
• Day 4 - Take lifts to Pointe Helbronner and climb the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Stay in the Torino Hut (3371m).
• Day 5 - Climb the North Face of the Tour Ronde and traverse the Vallee Blanche to the Cosmiques Hut.
• Day 6 - Climb the Contamine-Mazeaud Route on Mont Blanc Blanc du Tacul.

Previous ice climbing experience is essential for this type of climbing, preferrably with experience of walking or climbing at altitude. You must be comfortable on grade III Scottish winter climbs and very fit.

The maximum ratio for these climbs is one guide to two clients. Prices for a course based on the above programme and including half board accommodation in huts and in the valley for the duration of the course are below. Accommodation includes the night before and the night after the course. Prices are for the whole group, divide this by the number of people for the price per person. The only extras are lift fees and packed lunches.

Prices for a course based on the above programme and including half board accommodation in huts and in the valley for seven nights are below. Prices are per person and the only extras are lift fees and packed lunches.

Download the Alpine North Faces Kit List

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