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A very brief history of Scottish winter climbing.

2/12/2019

5 Comments

 
​Scottish winter climbing is world renowned for its adventure and quality of experience. Nowhere is it better than on Ben Nevis. So popular and well known is Ben Nevis, that climbers from all parts of the globe can be heard calling to each other while enjoying the unique style of climbing found here. The traditional approach to climbing is strongly maintained and the history of the climbs is well remembered. Modern ice climbing was developed here and that heritage adds greatly to the modern day climbing experience.
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Harold Raeburn
Harold Raeburn made the first ascent of Green Gully just over one hundred years ago which remained the hardest ice climb in the world for early 30 years. In his expedition report he apologised for not being able to climb the main objective, Comb Buttress, and being forced to go for the lesser objective of the gully running up its side. He was a man very far ahead of his time and his ice axe plays a significant role in the Scottish Mountaineering Club to this day. 
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Jimmy Marshall
In the winter of 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith completed the most significant week of climbing ever achieved in Scotland. Orion Direct, Smith's Route, Minus Two Gully and the first single day and free ascent of Point Five Gully were amongst the seven climbs they completed on consecutive days. All of this was achieved with a single ice axe each and crampons with no front points. Jimmy Marshall is renowned as the master of climbing ice by step cutting and was the main driver behind the amazing week of first ascents he made in 1960 with Robin Smith, often referred to as
"The Pinnacle" of the step cutting era.
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Hamish MacInnes
Ten years later in 1970 Yvon Chouinard made a brief visit which was to trigger a change that would revolutionise winter climbing. Using prototype curved ice hammers he made some very fast ascents demonstrating how to climb ice by direct aid, hanging off the pick itself embedded in the ice. Comparing techniques with John Cunningham, Hamish MacInnes and many others, modern ice climbing was born.

That year Hamish MacInnes developed "The Terrordactyl", a short, all metal ice tool with a steeply dropped pick. The "Terror" and Chouinard's ice hammer dominated the forefront of international ice climbing for several years. Eventually these two designs were combined to create the banana pick which is still the basis for modern ice tool design. Today, nearly fifty years on from The Terrordactyl, we are still using the same techniques. It's no exaggeration to say that modern ice climbing technique was developed in Lochaber and Hamish MacIness was at the forefront of this.
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Dave MacLeod climbing at Beinn Udlaidh
Currently, the hardest naturally protected winter mixed climb in the world is on Ben Nevis - Anubis, climbed by Dave MacLeod. Ben Nevis has seen a resurgence in popularity in recent years and is now again at the forefront of winter climbing. By continuing to be the venue for cutting edge climbs with the style of climbing and protection we’ve used for over one hundred years, Ben Nevis is setting a worldwide standard for climbing and continues to produce some of the finest climbers in the world. Our style of adventurous climbing is now seeing a resurgence in other countries and our ethos of mountaineering is worth defending.
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Ice axes belonging to Raeburn, Marshall, MacInnes and MacLeod
5 Comments
Graham Watson
2/12/2019 16:15:02

Good read and I agree with it all, but was Green Gully really the hardest in the world, harder than Steep Ghyll, Scafell climbed in 1890?

Reply
Michael Pescod
3/12/2019 18:45:51

Hi Graham, now that's really interesting! I did not know Steep Ghyll was climbed so early and that it is such a high grade! To be honest, I am just quoting Simon Richardson who is much better informed than me. I'll do some research. Thank you for pointing this out. Mike

Reply
Colin Wells
6/12/2019 10:17:13

Hi Mike

The Steep Gill ascent by Collie on Christmas Day 1891 is actually quite well documented and has been recognised (by some of us at least!) for over 20 years. Main references can be found in the FRCC Journal 1998 article 'Accidental Heroes'. It's also documented in the Historical Notes in Ken Wilson's Cold Climbs 2001 Supplement and in the extensive historical section of the Cicerone/FRCC Lake District Winter Climbs guide.

The reason it was so long overlooked is that Collie and his team was clearly pushed to the limit (I'm not surprised!) and he regarded the climb as 'unjustifiable' and didn't really want to publicise it. But in a 1926 FRCC article (which Al Phizacklea rediscovered when doing research for a revision of the Scafell guide in the 1990s) Collie wrote:

"My recollection of [Steep Ghyll] in snow and ice, is that it is one of the most dangerous climbs I have made"

A contemporary witness (FW Jackson, reminiscing in the 1925 Rucksack Club Journal) also wrote: 'Dr Norman Collie, Messrs.Wilfred L.W. Brodie, and E.W. Marshall... on Christmas Day made a desperate climb of Steep Ghyll under frozen conditions.'

Anyone who's done Steep Gill even with modern gear will likely concur with Collie's sentiments - or at least remember the climb vividly! The upper pitch is still pretty serious with practically no protection and involves tenuous steep climbing on thinly-iced compact, sloping terrain. It was a pretty stunning achievement, a genuine Grade V decades ahead of its time.

It might be worth noting this wasn't the only technically-hard winter climb achieved by the Victorian Wasdale Head pioneers well before anything similar was being done regularly in Scotland. The redoubtable O.G. Jones climbed both Oblique Chimney on Gable (IV, 5) over the Christmas of 1892/3 and, of course, famously, Moss Gill (IV) on Scafell in 1893, solo, with a backrope to protect the crux - from which he initially fell, breaking some ribs (and the clinometer he was carrying!).

Another notable pre-Green Gully hard route was the Barton Brothers' winter ascent of Slingsby's Chimney (IV, 5) on Scafell in 1899.

Reply
Graham Watson
8/12/2019 16:18:03

I knew you'd have a good run down on this one Colin!

Graham Watson
3/12/2019 22:19:47

Mike,
You'll find it in the Lakes Winter guide as Xmas 1890, Collie and Wilson.
Also climbed by Alice 'Jammy' Cross in 1938/9. I've not done the route but I believe it's fairly serious. I think you'll know Tony Shepherd who has done - I remember him describing it and it sounded scary!
Graham

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    Author

    Mike Pescod
    mountain guide.

    Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

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  • Home
  • Adventures
    • Ben Nevis >
      • Ben Nevis Winter Ascent
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      • Coire Leis
      • CMD Arete
      • Ledge Route
      • Tower Ridge
      • Events and Challenges
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      • Glen Nevis Heritage Trail
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