It was a cold and bright weekend on the West Coast with snow on the tops above 600m or so. There's not a great build up of snow but with a cold wind from the north and cloud hitting the crags we had some rime growing on the rocks. Above about 1100m there was enough white rime and snow on the crags to make them sufficiently wintry for some climbing. The turf is not well frozen at all and there's plenty of loose rocks; typical very early season conditions.
So, choosing a solid, rocky route with no turf that's high on the mountain is a good bet for the best climbing. Number Three Gully Buttress fits the criteria and Sioux Wall and Babylon were climbed as well as Tower Ridge and Ledge Route. It still amazes me that climbers can jump on Sioux Wall as their first winter climb of the season but that's the high standard of climber that Scotland (and a summer of training) produces!
We will get more snow tomorrow before it warms up and melts it all away for the rest of the week. It was a nice start to the winter though. What will the next six months bring for us? Lots of adventures, however much snow we get!
Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.