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All white on Dorsal Arete

12/1/2016

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Yesterday Andrew, Josh and I climbed Tower Ridge and summited Ben Nevis on their first day of winter climbing and their first peak in Scotland. Today they led themselves up Dorsal Arete for their first ever lead climb. It's been a steep learning curve! Dorsal Arete is a brilliant route for your first lead. It builds in difficulty to the crux at the top which has overhead protection from slings on spikes. One thin move and a couple of exposed balances get you up the fin before a last short pitch to the top. This climb is often very busy, for good reasons, but today there was one team up nice and early followed by us and no one else.
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There is lots of soft fresh snow in Coire nan Lochan and the crags are more white than I have ever seen them. Thick rime covers the rocks and the mixed climbing is definitely in condition. We enjoyed a quick slide down Broad Gully back into the coire and a slightly icy walk down the path. Another great day and we have several more cold dry days to come. 
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    Author

    Mike Pescod
    Mountain Guide.

    Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

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  • Home
  • Adventures
    • Ben Nevis >
      • Ben Nevis Pony Track
      • CMD Arete
      • Ledge Route
      • Tower Ridge
      • Events and Challenges
      • Ben Nevis Winter Ascent
    • Summer Guiding >
      • Ring of Steall
      • Glen Coe Walks
      • Curved Ridge
      • Aonach Eagach
      • Rock Climbing
      • Sea Stack Odyssey
      • Private Guiding
    • Skye and the Cuillin Ridge >
      • Cuillin Ridge Traverse
      • Cuillin Munro Bagging
      • Inaccessible Pinnacle
    • Provident Sailing & Hill Walking
    • Winter Guiding >
      • Winter Walking >
        • Winter Skills Courses
        • Guided Winter Walking
      • Winter Climbing >
        • Intro to Winter Climbing
        • Winter Climbing Progression
        • Classic Winter Climbing
        • Guided Winter Climbing
      • Skiing >
        • Intro to Ski Touring
        • Scottish Steep Skiing
        • Ropework for Skiers
      • Avalanche Awareness
      • Fort William Mountain Festival Workshops
      • Winter Resources
    • Mountain Leader Courses
  • Blog
  • Contact
  • About
  • Sustainability
    • climate donations
  • Booking
  • Partners