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North Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor.

2/3/2017

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For the bad weather day of the week today turned out to be a very good day. We had a little fresh snow over night and there was a wind from the west blowing it around a bit. Jonathan, Will and I went to climb North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor which turned out to be a popular choice. It's quite reassuring when other people look at the forecasts and ground conditions and come up with the same answer as you about what to go and climb. When it's busy though it's useful to be able to change plan or be happy to spend a sociable day on the climb. 
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As it was, Stu let us go in front so I hope we didn't slow him down. There was a team in front of us which we did not quite catch up and then three teams below Stu! The climbing was as brilliant as ever with enough snow to be useful but not to bury the hooks and ledges. There was even some firm snow in the chimney that held a pick for a move. We finished straight out the top of the chimney onto the terrace before abseiling down the side of the line of the climb. We did not want to abseil on top of the other climbers. In three pitches we descended 140m which was a nice first abseil for Jon!

​Meanwhile on Ben Nevis, there was a good bit more snow than in Glen Coe. Caspar and Rob decided not to go all the way to Number Three Gully Buttress and went back down to Douglas Boulder instead. This proved to be a good decision when they saw some avalanches from Number Two Gully and Green Gully areas!
​
​More sunshine tomorrow!
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    Author

    Mike Pescod
    mountain guide.

    Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

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  • Home
  • Adventures
    • Ben Nevis >
      • Ben Nevis Winter Ascent
      • Ben Nevis Mountain Track
      • Coire Leis
      • CMD Arete
      • Ledge Route
      • Tower Ridge
      • Events and Challenges
    • Summer Guiding >
      • Glen Nevis Heritage Trail
      • Ring of Steall
      • Glen Coe Walks
      • Curved Ridge
      • Aonach Eagach
      • Rock Climbing
      • Sea Stack Odyssey
      • Private Guiding
    • Skye and the Cuillin Ridge >
      • Cuillin Ridge Traverse
      • Cuillin Munro Bagging
      • Inaccessible Pinnacle
    • Winter Guiding >
      • Winter Walking >
        • Winter Skills Courses
        • Guided Winter Walking
      • Winter Climbing >
        • Intro to Winter Climbing
        • Classic Winter Mountaineering
        • Winter Climbing Progression
        • Classic Winter Climbing
        • Guided Winter Climbing
        • Performance Winter Climbing Workshop
      • Skiing >
        • Intro to Ski Touring
        • Scottish Steep Skiing
        • Ropework for Skiers
      • Avalanche Awareness
      • Women's Winter Festival
      • Fort William Mountain Festival Workshops
      • Winter Resources
    • Qualifications >
      • Mountain Leader Courses
      • Level 2 Mountain Bike Leadership Award
  • Blog
  • Contact
  • About
  • Sustainability
  • Booking
  • Partners
  • Covid-19