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Pinnacle Buttress, Aonach Dubh.

1/2/2017

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Slightly warmer weather again last night and rain to the summits gave way slowly this morning to a bright day. We even had some sunshine this afternoon. Geaspar and Maghnus had to be in Lochgilphead by 4.30pm though so we got an early start and an early finish. We went for a climb on the west face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. This has a short but brutal approach walk and a fantastic atmosphere once on the climbs.
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We climbed Pinnacle Arete with a start to the right of the buttress. This is a route I've climbed a couple of times now and I think it's great. Many years ago I was assessed climbing it for my MIA and I didn't really appreciate how much fun it is then! Despite a few areas of loose rock there is great climbing on steep rough rhyolite with big holds. The slope beneath drops right down to the glen and away to the loch so it is a very airy place to climb.
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From the top of the climb it is easy to walk rightwards to the foot of the North Ridge of The Amphitheatre, another great, clean climb at about grade Difficult. There are lots of pinnacles and chimneys in the Amphitheatre and in face right along this face and I'd love to explore a bit more up there. we went over to Number Two Gully to descend and followed the wee ledge out to the right which brings you out underneath Dinnertime Buttress. Again, it's a quick, if brutal, descent and we made it back with plenty of time for the guys to get down the road. We done to Geaspar and Maghnus and I hope everything goes well on the big day on Saturday!
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    Author

    Mike Pescod
    mountain guide.

    Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

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  • Home
  • Adventures
    • Ben Nevis >
      • Ben Nevis Winter Ascent
      • Ben Nevis Mountain Track
      • Coire Leis
      • CMD Arete
      • Ledge Route
      • Tower Ridge
      • Events and Challenges
    • Summer Guiding >
      • Glen Nevis Heritage Trail
      • Ring of Steall
      • Glen Coe Walks
      • Curved Ridge
      • Aonach Eagach
      • Rock Climbing
      • Sea Stack Odyssey
      • Private Guiding
    • Skye and the Cuillin Ridge >
      • Cuillin Ridge Traverse
      • Cuillin Munro Bagging
      • Inaccessible Pinnacle
    • Winter Guiding >
      • Winter Walking >
        • Winter Skills Courses
        • Guided Winter Walking
      • Winter Climbing >
        • Intro to Winter Climbing
        • Classic Winter Mountaineering
        • Winter Climbing Progression
        • Classic Winter Climbing
        • Guided Winter Climbing
        • Performance Winter Climbing Workshop
      • Skiing >
        • Intro to Ski Touring
        • Scottish Steep Skiing
        • Ropework for Skiers
      • Avalanche Awareness
      • Women's Winter Festival
      • Fort William Mountain Festival Workshops
      • Winter Resources
    • Qualifications >
      • Mountain Leader Courses
      • Level 2 Mountain Bike Leadership Award
  • Blog
  • Contact
  • About
  • Sustainability
  • Booking
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  • Covid-19