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We headed East today.

24/2/2017

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Elved, Tony and I headed east today, a long way east. to Far Eastern Buttress where we climbed Eastern Slant. I've climbed here a couple of times in summer and in winter amnd it's been great fun. However I had not climbed Eastern Slant despite it being a good route with deep snow and in a westerly gale. It's the last buttress on the right as you walk up towards Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe and the best approach is to follow the path all the way to the stream crossing at the big boulder then a short traverse across easy slopes to the foot of the buttress.
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The climbing on Eastern Slant (III,4) is delicate rather than difficult and the protection is not always great. Today the snow was wet and the turf very wet so we did a lot of pushing and weight shifts rather than pulling on our axes. This is great practice though and good for building effective climbing technique. Some fresh snow was falling as we walked down as the next weather front came in along with very strong winds, a thaw and lots of rain. However it was a good end to a week of climbing with Tony and Elved that gave us wild swings in the weather. Hopefully it will be a bit more settled and cold next week.
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    Author

    Mike Pescod
    Mountain Guide.

    Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

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  • Home
  • Adventures
    • Ben Nevis >
      • Ben Nevis Pony Track
      • CMD Arete
      • Ledge Route
      • Tower Ridge
      • Events and Challenges
      • Ben Nevis Winter Ascent
    • Summer Guiding >
      • Ring of Steall
      • Glen Coe Walks
      • Curved Ridge
      • Aonach Eagach
      • Rock Climbing
      • Sea Stack Odyssey
      • Private Guiding
    • Skye and the Cuillin Ridge >
      • Cuillin Ridge Traverse
      • Cuillin Munro Bagging
      • Inaccessible Pinnacle
    • Provident Sailing & Hill Walking
    • Winter Guiding >
      • Winter Walking >
        • Winter Skills Courses
        • Guided Winter Walking
      • Winter Climbing >
        • Intro to Winter Climbing
        • Winter Climbing Progression
        • Classic Winter Climbing
        • Guided Winter Climbing
      • Skiing >
        • Intro to Ski Touring
        • Scottish Steep Skiing
        • Ropework for Skiers
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      • Fort William Mountain Festival Workshops
      • Winter Resources
    • Mountain Leader Courses
  • Blog
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  • Sustainability
    • climate donations
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