Twas brillig, and the slithy toves Did gyre and gimble in the wabe: All mimsy were the borogoves, And the mome raths outgrabe.” — Lewis Carroll The quote is from Jabberwocky, a poem written by Lewis Carroll in his book Through The Looking Glass. At long last I have discovered what a Mome Rath is and I've also been to the Mome Rath Face above The Hidden Valley in Glen Coe and climbed the Mome Rath Route. It's not nonsense at all, it's a very good crag and excellent climbing. Thankfully we didn't see any Mome Raths but I can't guarantee there won't be anythere when you climb the route. It's not a long walk in to The Hidden Valley but it is slightly tricky finding a reasonable route to the terrace at the foot of the crag. Well worth walking up the opposite side of the flats in the Hidden Valley to check out the best line. We went up Rev Ted's Gully side and it worked out well. The climbing on Mome Rath Route is excellent. The rock is solid and mostly clean with great protection and ledges to belay on. The first few short pitches are a nice warm up to the chimney at the top. This is V.Diff. and was slightly wet today but this didn't effect the climbing at all. The views from the crag are immense too, especially looking down on the tiny figures at the bottom of the coire. Mike and I have been exploring most of the V.Diff. and Severe climbs in Glen Coe and there are a couple more to go back to on this face. After such a brilliant, sunny and dry day up there today I'm pretty keen to go back and do the others. Is it too early to think aboiut winter climbing? Mome Rath Route would be awesome in winter as a mixed route - frozen turf and rimed up rock is all you need.
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AuthorMike Pescod Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These blog posts and conditions reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.
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